Day 142: Abomey

Voodo has its origins in Benin and so today we're diving into the topic, even if it's not really our thing.

Bocco picks us up and the first thing we do is visit a fetish market. Not for weak stomachs, good noses or European animal lovers.

It starts innocently enough with pottery. Each vessel, no matter how small, has a purpose and is filled with herbs or other offerings to fulfill certain wishes or cure illnesses. For example, if an offering is made for twins, there are special double vessels for this too.

Then the living animals: goats, chickens, pigeons, dog puppies, small cats, monkeys. Probably other ones upon special request.

And then the realm of dead animals: everything you can imagine. In parts or in whole. In any degree of decomposition or drying.

Snakes, frogs, birds of prey, colorful songbirds, horse heads, monkey heads, rats, leopard skins and other large animals – these are then sold in small pieces. Nothing is forbidden, you can get everything, depending on which god you want to offer a sacrifice to and on which topic.

The disgust factor for both of us is high. The olfactory challenge is slightly less than feared. Nevertheless, we don't stay long. We only pay something for taking photos at one stand, a little documentation is required. 

What's interesting is that the people here are wealthy, because when you buy for a sacrifice you don't negotiate the price – the gods would take offense at that. So a good deal for the sellers.

Legba is also a good deal maker. With his huge erect phallus he stands for potency and protects every village. And he is also the god who speaks the language of all other gods. So if you want to offer a sacrifice to another god, you must first ask Legba to mediate with a sacrifice. And it is probably the priest who tells you which god you have to offer something to.

Speaking of priests. We first buy a bottle of whiskey for the person we want to visit, the inexpensive version for just under 4 euros.

Then we get to watch a few ritual acts with shells, pebbles, coins, chains, talcum powder, which serve to solve a personal question from our guide.

Afterwards we will also be prayed for and a little whiskey will be poured. Each of us drinks a sip and then spills some whiskey and so our journey should continue to Namibia without any major problems.

Let’s just believe in it now!

This blessing costs us another 5,000 CFA :-) The religious value chain is the same everywhere.

But we also get a few questions answered. First and foremost, the Voodoo priest helps solve everyday problems. But he also makes predictions for the future and gives advice on what to do. And he keeps in touch with the past, which is no surprise in a society that has been referring to kingdoms since the 1600s. And yes, it should also be able to keep enemies away. If we understand it correctly, the prerequisite for this is that you know the enemy well and can provide sufficient clues. In this respect, a priest seems to be a powerful man.

At midday it is so hot that even our guide says it is like fire. So blazing heat. We gratefully return to the shade at Chez Monique. And we actually don't do much anymore other than sorting ourselves out a little.