Day 37: Wildcamp Naila – Parking at the beach of Laayoune

The wind died down a bit at some point during the night, but picked up again in the morning. This means breakfast rather quickly and standing in the small slipstream of the rear of the car. Everything is full of sand. But the lagoon-like landscape in the sun with flamingos in the background makes up for it.

We go looking for a waterfall with Lionel and Ghislaine. The first longer off-road route with our car. And it drives great! We already had a waterfall without much water on this trip. Nevertheless: the approximately four hour drive time is a detour, but we saw some great landscapes.

Lio and Domi followed us later and are taking a different route back with Lionel and Ghislaine; hunger drives us as quickly as possible to Tarfaya. Tagine with whatever meat (almost like oxtail, could have been camel). Tasty, filling, healthy with lots of vegetables and at 100 MAD including two Cokes it was totally inexpensive for us. The people here are generally very friendly to us, some show with gestures and greetings that they think it's nice that we eat and shop "at their place".

On the further route we can't really find a place to spend the night. Campings no longer exist (due to Corona) or were never here anyways (because there is a lot of military)?

Once we ask at one of the many small guard posts and he confirms that we are not allowed to stand there on the coast. “Difficult place” is the key word. The guard posts are set up every two kilometers and patrol the coast all night long. We heard that people there work for four months at a time and are then allowed to go home for 21 days.

We drive almost to Laayoune. The campsite is also closed there, but a municipal parking lot is available, according to iOverlander. We are somewhat sheltered from the wind and will probably sleep better. And we have a hot shower (sand and salt) – but that belongs in the Amorgos 1978 category (next to a disgusting toilet and with dead cockroaches all around us). What the heck, you become humble...
Later, a Moroccan couple joins us in the parking lot. It's amazing how much equipment fits into a normal car. The birdcage is included and also a mini television. :-) And we are presented with a bowl of dates and cookies.