Day 83: Conakry

The situation is not good, but not hopeless either.

The explosion not only cost human lives but also destroyed the central oil depot. The fire is still burning today and the city is still sealed off towards Kaloum. Gas stations are closed across the country. If you think about the scenario further, it doesn't look good. Reliant on oil imports, the infrastructure for distribution is severely compromised. Where there is no diesel, there is no transport and therefore food will become scarcer and more expensive. A catastrophe for the people of Guinea. During the conversation we are definitely advised to leave the country as soon as possible.

Our diesel should reach to the border of Sierra Leone and a little further. What we learn from this again is to refuel more often. But we can – since we have the visa – travel further to Liberia.

The visa for the Ivory Coast would now be extremely helpful. After we get the answer from the embassy that emergency operations have been set up and we hear that you can pass the barrier on foot, we set off.

We take a motorcycle taxi both there and back. Given the situation, two of us ride in the back, which saves fuel. There was no sign of the small bottles of gasoline on the side of the road yesterday.

Honestly, speeding through a very empty city at 50 km/h without a helmet is kind of fun. We find it a little more tricky going back because the driver apparently wants to break his personal record of over 60 km/h. As we climb up to the barrier, a gendarme raises his thumb – so what we're doing seems somehow okay.

The mood in Kaloum is depressing. The black smoke is over the district, we are only allowed to pass through with a mask. People have nothing to do except clear up broken pieces, most things are closed. The military government has a very strong presence. When we greet people offensively with “Bonjour,” the answer is often “Merci.”

We actually get our visa for Ivory Coast! And pay an express surcharge of 30 euros per person so that you can take everything back with you straight away. We'd rather not leave our passports in a part of town where we don't know whether we'll be allowed to go again tomorrow.

On the way back we grab a few chocolate bars, pick up your laundry and head to the pool. We were really running hot after the walk in town. And brown fluid comes out of today's clothes again.

The hotel is a nice consolation. This month will blow our budget with all the surcharges, hotel and food costs – but we'll manage it.