Day 72: Kasama

After 10 hours, we crawl out of bed :-) We feel a bit more rested, and Brigitte's head is feeling better.

Most important today: extending our visa. It goes smoothly, costs no extra fee, and only takes about half an hour to wait.

Then we want to clarify whether the road tax also needs to be extended (as Nick suggests, traveling in a South African car) or not (because we have a Carnet de Passages). At the Zambia Revenue Authority, we experience pure African bureaucracy. The doorman directs us to Room 6, and a "fixer" (people who help you at the border and with authorities for money) immediately starts following us. Room 6 is locked; the people in Rooms 7 and 8 direct us to Room 9. Locked. In a large room at the front, about eight people are sitting doing nothing much. A saleswoman lays out her wares, and we examine the selection in detail. We are asked to please wait somewhere else; they feel like they're being watched. We start to get annoyed at room 8. They call the manager but can't reach him. Then a call to room 6. They'll get in, but it'll take a while; they need a taxi first. The people in the large room are still busy with the merchandise or their cell phones.

After 45 minutes, we give up and decide to play dumb if they get checked and point out that there's no expiration date on our road tax form.

Off to Airtel; we also need a new data package for our SIM card, as the old one expires after 30 days. It's easy, a relief.

And then: grocery shopping at a brand-new Shoprite. The management is there, and, we hear, they're having visitors from South Africa. Everyone there is wearing a Shoprite uniform today; they're sweeping, mopping, tidying up, helping...
And we manage to tell the management that we really appreciate Shoprite as travelers, but miss Nutella here in the store.

Back in the garden to eat the leftovers, and then, unfortunately, Wolle has to get back to the cabin mount and install the new Chinese screw with the large washers. What a mess.

Meanwhile, Brigitte tries to reconcile Facebook information, travel guide information, and maps and verify the routes to some waterfalls for the next few days.

As we're about to shower as a reward, the power goes out. Power outages in Zambia are truly terrible. Frequent and unpredictable. Alicia, the house sweetheart, makes sure the generator starts and we have hot water.

Back to the Thorntree Cafe, more delicious wraps, and park in the garden again as night falls.

By the way, it's a full moon, and bats are flying above us.