Day 81: Flower and Fern Cottage and Campsite (Sambia) – Sumbawanga (Tansania) – Lake Shore Lodge and Campsite

The border is easy.

Exiting Zambia – Where had we been and had we visited Livingston? Yes, last year. And just like that, the stamp is in. It's almost as if they wouldn't have let us leave without visiting Livingston.

Then a short drive to the Tanzania border terminal.

Health check – Our data is recorded and we're given a card with a toll-free emergency number in case we have any of the symptoms listed. Later, we read that there's a more or less donation-based system of small planes and airports for medical care because the road network in some regions of Tanzania is so poor.

Immigration – We would only get a true multiple-entry visa as US citizens. But we're granted 90 days and should be able to re-enter Tanzania from Uganda without paying another $50 per person. A small gray area again...

The whole thing takes a while because the border station isn't online, and our immigration number has to be obtained over the phone.

Meanwhile, Customs stamps the carnet, but there's still a road tax to pay (25 USD). Since we can't transfer money via M-Pesa, the officer does it for us on his phone. It costs us a 5 USD "transfer fee," though.

Meanwhile, Becky arrived in Tanzania before us because we had to move for a passing truck.

Everyone is friendly, joking, and after less than an hour, we've left the one and entered the other country.

Since we were able to exchange some Tanzanian shillings with Brad, which he had received from other travelers, only a small amount remains for the money changers at the border. Nevertheless, everyone is satisfied.

We are surprised: As we cross the border, the landscape changes, the overall impression, the people, and a few minor details.

There are road signs; Official speed limits and, above all, their lifting. Street names. Zebra crossings. Shoulders for pedestrians and cyclists across the country, at least on the main road sponsored by US citizens. But there are also tuk-tuks again. Motorbikes with up to four people and/or an animal. Hardly any private cars, but when there are, they're not in the worst condition. Wonderfully brightly painted minibuses and trucks. There are large banknotes that are worthless again. And there are mosques again. Women with headscarves, probably of Indian descent. The African women wear longer wraps and more muted colors than in Zambia.

We have wider views. The landscape sometimes seems tropical, sometimes we think of savannah, but overall, intensive agriculture is practiced. More cattle than goats. Somehow poor, but not miserable.

It's exciting; we're truly in a different country.

In Sumbawanga, the first stop is the ATM. We'll need more cash and won't be able to use our credit cards as often. Then we'll head to Vodacom for two SIM cards. Which takes a while because Vodacom isn't always online – what a joke.

We eat at a small Indian restaurant, buy a large family-sized jar of Nutella and salted cashews from another Indian shop, and some sweet rolls from an Indian bakery.

And on we go; we have a long day of driving today. After 10 hours (including the border and lunch break), we reach Lake Tanganyika at dusk! And we've descended from an altitude of 1,900 meters to about 800.