Day 140: Chembes Eagle Nest – Liwonde NP

We're moving on today. Even though the Chembe Eagles' Nest is thinning out a bit – the two attractive spots on the beach are taken. And you can't go swimming anyway because of the little slug worms. It will be interesting to see in about six weeks whether the chlorine added to the shower water really kills the creatures or not. If chlorine was added...

Liwonde National Park is supposed to be one of the highlights in Malawi. The fact that it's managed by African Parks makes us rather skeptical. However, in comparison, at USD 30 per person per night for parking fees, USD 12 per person per night for camping, and USD 5 per day for the car, it's a "bargain" :-).

The campsite has about a dozen sites. Most are suitable for tents, four for cars with rooftop tents, and only one of them is truly levelled. One of these sites is occupied by other travelers, and the other sites that are suitable are occupied by tents. So we squeeze onto the access road in front of a tent, level out with rocks, and spend a good night. Is it worth $24 a night? Hmm. At least the restrooms are new and clean.

A game drive in the surrounding area is still possible this afternoon, and we at least enjoy three elephants, a herd of buffalo, and the pleasant scenery.

The future of these parks will be one or two expensive lodges in the spots where the most animals are expected. The surrounding tracks are only for visitors with reservations and the lodges' safari vehicles. There's also a small airstrip for convenient transfers. There will be fewer and fewer spots for self-drivers/campers because: not profitable. Only a few tented camps will remain for the locals to party on the weekends.