Day 167: Crocodile Bridge Rest Camp (South Africa) – Ndlovu Camp, Royal Hlane National Park (Eswantini)

The border between South Africa and Eswatini is probably the easiest one of all. Nobody cares about importing or exporting cars, because we're in the Southern African Customs Union.

We pay the road tax, get two stamps in our passports, and that's it. Or so we thought. At the exit gate of the customs area, we have to open the car, and the customs officer says we should have declared alcohol (a six-pack of beer and an opened bottle of brandy). We only know that we're not allowed to bring in fresh meat; there was no mention of alcohol anywhere. Only when Brigitte offers to empty the bottle of brandy at his feet are we allowed through the gate.

Our destination today isn't far: Hlane Royal National Park. We had briefly stopped there eight years ago, but didn't dare go far in our rental car.

The campsite has plenty of space, there's a restaurant (albeit with not particularly good food), and a watering hole. And that's the sensation, because up to a dozen rhinos gather here throughout the day, still having their horns because they're apparently very well protected here. Fantastic.

In the afternoon, we take a short drive to the Mahlindza Waterhole, see giraffes, nyalas, impalas, and warthogs in the bush or on the track.

And we finally manage to get a photo of the "African Paradise Flycatcher"...

After experiencing the Vortrekker mentality of some South Africans in the Kruger (very expansive and always on the hunt for the best spots), this quiet spot is good for us.

We hear a curious story from our neighbors about their family history. British and German soldiers seem to have cooperated here as a unit. When the Second World War ended, however, Germans were only allowed to settle in South Africa if they had a British wife. This then led to a very curious marriage market. Have we understood all this correctly? We hope to obtain a written record of the family history.