Day 132: Mushroom Farm – Chelinda Campsite (Nyika NP)
Yesterday we had a nice dinner at the communal table:
A Belgian family with almost grown-up daughters, who, after a week and a half of traveling by rental car, are now traveling for a week and a half by public transport. A very unique experience.
A German man who works in the coffee business (order online at kaffee-tikondane.com). He talks a bit about the two ways to prepare the beans for roasting. Peeling the "cherry," washing, and drying the beans. Or drying the whole fruit, then removing the dry outer skin (which requires a special machine), and then washing and drying again – at least that's how we understood it. He also explains that due to the fighting with the rebels, it's still almost impossible to get coffee out of eastern DRC.
A Chinese man who apparently enjoys traveling long distances by public transport and relishes chaos.
An Irishman with Polish roots who has spent a long time in Malawi and has a lot of knowledge about the country.
A Spanish couple traveling with their parents. He's the only one who speaks English, and it's the parents' first time in Africa – quite a challenge.
And a young guy from San Francisco.
It reminds us a bit of Villa Maguela in Mauritania. There, however, the rides were more intimate, practically in Tish and Victor's living room.
We continue past Livingstonia (named after Livingston, who did missionary work here), via Ramphi, and onto the dirt road to Nyika National Park.
At first, we're only faced with a bumpy gravel and sand road, which also serves as a public transportation system. Visibility is poor: grassland and bushes are being burned down everywhere, and the landscape is somewhat desolate.
The last third of the route, however, becomes increasingly exciting. We reach an altitude of 2,300 meters, there are hardly any trees, more boulders, and a sweeping view of hilly-looking peaks. The plateau is stunning!
Chelinda Camp means lodge and campsite. We have a wonderful spot with a sweeping view, and Mateo, the caretaker, has not only prepared hot water for a shower but also a campfire where we can warm ourselves for a long time. Which is necessary, as it's freezing cold.
And while we've completely missed seeing animals during the day, we're rewarded here with very pretty bushbuck, reedback (related to the waterback), and a few eland. The animals roam the edge of the campsite at dusk, and a bushbuck stays nearby all evening and probably the night too.
A delicious meal, hot tea, a full moon, absolute silence, the campfire – how cozy!