Day 139: Nkhotakota Pottery – Chembe/Cape Maclear

For breakfast, we watch the fishermen returning. Hard work, little success. They go out in the evening and stay out all night, or they land around three, take a short break (or change crew), and head out again at sunrise. Then they dry, mend, and clean the nets. Others sell the fish. We see many along the road, fresh, dried, and smoked – most of them small, with only a few larger ones in between.

We have about 266 km ahead of us today. At first, the road is good, then it becomes bumpy.

The landscape changes, the mountains to the west draw closer. Add to that palm trees and baobabs, and – dryness.

In the afternoon, the route takes us through Lake Malawi National Park. The fact that we are in a protected area is primarily evident in the absence of villages. Cape Maclear, a headland and offshore islands, is said to be one of Malawi's scenic highlights.

Shortly before our destination, we get stuck behind a truck in Chembe. So, back to Chembe Eagles Nest by a different route. Where have we ended up? We're driving through a completely impoverished fishing village with thatched dwellings, mini-shops, and lots of charcoal fires. It's littered, it stinks, and the sandy track is barely wide enough.

The Eagles Nest campsites are overcrowded with South Africans; we're third in the row and have to level out. But it's okay for one night. The view of the lake from the small beach is worth it, and the restaurant is somehow reminiscent of Greece. With tables in the sand, wooden chairs, strings of lightbulbs...