Day 84: Lake Shore Lodge and Campsite – Wildcamp (between Mpanda and Kigoma)

First, we have to retrace our steps back a long way, from the lake to the plateau.

Following the motto "Always fill up when there's diesel," we fill up and head north. We cross Katavi National Park (free of charge) and don't really see anything exciting. Only at one bridge do crocs, hippos, grey herons, and saddle-billed storks gather... Nevertheless, the road isn't difficult, the scenery is quite nice, and would the alternative route have been better? We realize once again that the entries on iOverlander are only of limited help, as the condition of a road can sometimes change dramatically in just a few months. And we notice from the entries that many travelers have passed through here on bicycles.

After Mpanda, the road continues for a good stretch on decent gravel, and then it gets really bad. The road is being prepared for construction, the heavy machinery is destroying what's still good, and for one section, we accidentally end up on the newly cleared track instead of the old one – we feel like we're in a quarry, creeping through scree and shallows...

The day is already late and long when things get a little better. Our planned camp at a waterfall is unattractive (the construction site and the waterfall are inaccessible), so we continue on in search of a wild camp.

At the first optional spot, we find a herd of cattle (the Ankole cattle have truly powerful horns), and a few young people immediately show up, wanting to play soccer right there. The boys are almost disappointed when we move on, but we're not in the mood for company today.

The next spot is ideal. A narrow access road between rocks, reasonably well protected from the dust and noise of the road, out of sight, and a good place to stand. We crawl into bed with the darkness, look at the stars for a while, and let the roar of the slopes fade away in our heads.