Day 46: Whispering Sands Campsite (Sioma/Ngonye Falls, Sambia) – Wildcamp nearby Liuwa Plain NP

The sound of the falls and the water actually gave us a pleasant night. Unfortunately, Wolle has a bit of an upset stomach, which isn't such a blessing.

We continue north today. We pass small settlements all the time, and the town of Senanga stretches for many kilometers. Up to this point, the road is excellent, and we make good progress. The road deteriorates significantly until Mongu, with increasing pothole density.

We buy bread, fill up the tank, and continue west on a fairly new road with many bridges over the alluvial plains of the Zambezi. The landscape is a complete surprise. The small houses and huts stand slightly elevated in the alluvial plains, like those on the Halligen islands in Northern Germany. Alongside the road, dugout canoes (mokoro) are a common means of transport for people and loads. 17 km west of Mongu, we cross the "Little Zambezi" and, at kilometer 24, the Zambezi itself. It takes us some time before we leave the alluvial plains. Great scenery.

According to the guidebook, there's supposed to be a community camp in Kalabo. But we can't find it, and we assume it's fallen victim to the new road. So we do what many overlanders apparently do: We drive part of the track toward the reception of Liuwa Plain National Park and look for a spot for a wild camp away from the deep sandy track.

It might be possible to make it to the reception and the first camp in the park, but it's too expensive if you can't make it to the first camp.

Our current balance: $40 per person per night parking fee, $25 per person per night camping, $15 for the car. That makes a whopping $145 for two days/one night. African Parks, after all...

Our spot seems quiet, and hopefully it stays that way. We have internet access and leftovers to eat – good thing.