Day 47: Wildcamp nearby Liuwa Plain NP – Katoyana Campsite (Liuwa Plain NP)

The access road to the park reception remains deep in sand. We pay our US $145. At least the parking fee is valid for the entire stay and not, like in Kafue, just until the next morning.

During a short presentation about the great work of African Parks, we learn that this is the only national park where people actually live permanently. We later read why: A king had settled people in a previously uninhabited area to protect his hunting grounds from poachers. And his descendants rely on this today.

The book "Entrepreneurs in the Wild" from the author Olivier van Beemen takes a rather critical look at the work of African Parks, especially its treatment of locals, broken promises regarding compensation projects, the lack of respect for human rights, etc. If we hadn't kept this in mind, we would be enthusiastic about African Parks' commitment.

We first drive through wooded areas in deep sand. Gradually, the terrain clears, and we see the plains before us. The track becomes firmer, occasionally it's a bit muddy, and sometimes we suddenly find ourselves standing in front of water. We look for other tracks, but the further north we drive, the more often there's no other option than to cross the water.

The paths on the African Parks map, the tracks on the navigation system or EarthMate (Garmin Inreach), and reality don't really have much in common.

Sometimes the grass is so high that you can't see anything at all, sometimes it's shorter, sometimes the vegetation is only close to the ground with small flowers. Could also be in Friesland (Northern Germany) ... :-)

During the day, we see hundreds of blue wildebeest, a few herds of zebra, and the occasional ibex. A variety of birds are seen in and around the water.

The panoramic views from the roof of the car are breathtaking, and the number of wildebeest is enormous.

We have a leisurely lunch on the roof of the car overlooking King's Pool and once again find it incredible that we can do this.

We arrive at the Katoyana Campsite at perfect coffee time. Five large sites, very basic, somewhat shady, with no panoramic views, but nice and at least with hot water, albeit a bit brackish.

We've already had so much fun that we decide to while away the afternoon here. We only drive out again for sundowners, discover a colony of marabou storks, and enjoy the view.

What a wonderful day!