Day 200: Hermanus – Franschhoek

The coastal road from Hermanus via Betty's Bay to Somerset West is magical. Mountains inland, the coast rocky with small beach coves, the view across the bay to the peninsula south of Cape Town with Table Mountain. It feels like you can stop every two kilometers to enjoy the scenery.

At Stoney Point near Betty's Bay, we visit a penguin colony – nice because it's not as busy as Simon's Town on the other side of the bay.

The penguins are molting. First, they eat themselves quite fat for a few weeks, then molt their feathers for about three weeks. During this time, they can't go to the sea, so the fat is lost again.

Somerset West is quite a metropolis and merges seamlessly into Cape Town – port area, industry, and townships… But first, we turn off to Stellenbosch and Van Ryn's Brandy Distillery. They're supposed to be among the best products in the world.

And we remember again why we don't really remember Stellenbosch, even though we've been here before. The town was certainly pretty once, but the center is completely overcrowded, dominated by restaurants, souvenir shops, and knick-knack stores. So let's get out of here.

Franschoek is smaller, also completely touristy, but somehow nicer. Bent's Otter Lodge and Campsite is a bit outside (a 10-minute walk to the main road), and we're in the countryside.

Both towns are beautifully situated at the foot of the mountains, surrounded by farms, vineyards, meadows, and groves. Lots of white paint on the houses, fences, and seating. It all feels a bit like a phantasy town.

At a wine shop, we get recommendations for three red wines and three white wines – who can sample over 50 wineries in such a short time? The EU allows us 10 bottles (in addition to the brandy :-)).

Mentally, we somehow haven't yet reached the (French) haute cuisine, and instead of a 10-course meal with wine tasting, we're having steak and fries again. South Africans are the best with meat. And a local beer (Tuk Tuk Lager), absolutely satisfying.

While camping, we deplete our and their red wine supplies with Ina and Hansjörg (we had already met in Hermanus). It's a good thing there's a nice communal kitchen – it's a nasty cold wind outside.