Day 42: Kaingu Lodge – Lusaka

It's almost a shame that we can't stay a second night, but we want to go back to Lusaka. We learn from Julia, who has lived in Zambia for 14 years, that her lodge opens in April and the so-called Spiral Road is accessible all year round – a clear difference to the northern part of the Kafue NP. Maybe we'll come back.

Julia also confirms that a large part of the community is being relocated. In recent times, more and more people have settled in the Game Management Reserve (GMR), illegally clearing and farming. Now only those who have traditionally lived here for generations are allowed to stay.

We read again that around 30% of the country is protected areas of varying degrees, which is roughly the size of Holland and Belgium. Nevertheless, with a population of "only" around 22 million, there should be enough land. The community was apparently offered good land on the Lower Zambezi. It's difficult for us to judge and it's certainly a difficult situation – whatsoever, it's sad. Lots of people are still sitting on the side of the road with their belongings this morning. Julia also confirms that there is a new track from the M9 to McBride Camp. We can't verify it. We drive back to Lusaka, have to stop at a few petrol stations before we can get diesel and get caught in the heavy afternoon traffic. We stop at the backpackers again to meet Carl and rush back to Pioneers Camp just before dark – it's nice to be back there.