Day 17: Xakanaxa – Khwai River Hippo Pools Campsite

At the beginning of the night we can still hear the hippos splashing through the water as they eat. Otherwise, crickets and frogs provide the sound that helps us fall asleep. We have breakfast with a view of the sunrise over the grass – magical.

On the way to the North Gate to Khwai, we are repeatedly told by signs to only use the main path (dry route). That's a bit boring.

But then a wide pan with trees, water, grass, a bit swampy perhaps, is incredibly beautiful. A hippo is bathing right in front of us and around 40 elephants are scattered around the pan. Kudus, waterbucks, warthogs and baboons round off the whole thing. Great cinema!

We take a few more detours towards the Khwai River and dawdle to the North Gate. A large herd of hippos is impressive, some of which are in the water and some of which are grazing on land. In the midst of zebras and antelopes.

And then we actually see three crocodiles!

We pay our extra day's parking fee and immediately after the gate follow the signs to the Khwai River Hippo Campsite. Our spot, "Eagle 2," is at the end and close to a ford through which elephants cross the river.

We spend the afternoon in the shade at 44 degrees and just look at the water of the Khwai River – the water level is not particularly high, though. The hippos bathe a little further downstream and we keep hearing their roaring – there is no other way to describe it.

At some point we walk to the shower and chase away a herd of waterbucks.

At 5:30 p.m. Viva comes with a friend and wood and prepares a fire for us – light a ball of elephant dung, wait a good half hour, fan it a little with the board and it burns beautifully.

Sitting here in the evening, looking into the fire (African TV), listening to the hippos, frogs, crickets and birds is indescribably beautiful!