Day 13: Engineer Creek Campground - Tuktoyaktuk / Arctic Ocean

In the morning I observe how a man photographs a flower. He tells me that he and his wife saw and photographed a grizzly the day before - great pictures.

I hope I will come to Inuvik today. I take some pictures on the way and notice that the actioncam is broken out of its mount. I rode only about 20 km and so I turn around and I actually find it at the end of a bridge. The bridges here are often covered with metal plates which is bumping accordingly. Well, first of all, no more shots with the Actioncam, because I can attach it nowhere anymore. Too bad. Maybe Brigitte can use it later on the pillion.

Riding the gravel roads here is easy, the landscape just great. I am doing well. Shortly before Eagle Plains the fuel gauge jumps to reserve, because I have really accelerated. But if necessary, I would still have three liters in the canister. In Eagle Plains, I fuel up and decide to have lunch there. Good decision. Soup with toast and then a main course. The waitress is suprised about what I'm eating, but I need it.

Immediately I'm in a conversation with two men from the table near to me, Juri and Murphy, who came shortly after me. Juri is German and has been living in Canada for about 18 years. They invite me to stop at Fort McPherson, where they both work on a project.

On my continuing ride I have to ferry twice, once at Fort McPherson over the Peel River, once at Tsiigehtchic (what a name!) over the Mackenzie River. Waiting for the second ferry I meet a Justice of the peace from Inuvik, who tells a lot about the social conditions of the First Nations, the natives. Very interesting. There are alcohol and drug problems, but people can not be transplanted when they grow up here. There is a low level of education and high unemployment (85%) - living conditions, which are not improved by state subsidies paid by the principle of pouring water.

Continuing in a cloud of dust the road leads boring and straight towards Inuvik. At the next refueling stop there I meet two Americans, father (Tom) and son (Luke), each with his bike. It starts to rain and we consider together if we go to Tuk immediately. The guy at the gas station suggests riding now and waiting for the bad weather in Tuk. I ride ahead and I am very happy to know that someone else will follow me. The first 24 km are still easy to ride, but then it is getting slippery, with potholes and also deep gravel. 10 km, with which I have to struggle. In between, I'm getting afraid that I will not be able to do the 150 km to Tuk. But then the road gets better, but it keeps raining.

At the end of the road there's the sign "Arctic Ocean" and somehow people from all over the world meet here. Saturday at midnight I arrive and it is still light. At 1:15 am sun sets, at 3 am it is supposed to rise again, but time does not matter here obviously, it's a not ending coming and going here. I'm still watching the sunset, but after more than 700 km riding today I will not wait until the sunrise. I'll sleep like a stone tonight and wake up at 10 in the morning.