Day 32: Bolungarvík – Þingeyri

The tunnel from Isafjörður to Suðureyri (or Flateyri) is a bit spooky. Not only is there a T-junction inside the tunnel, but parts of it are also single-lane with passing bays.

The valley of Suðureyri is pleasant – as are, in fact, all these valleys nestled between mountains at the heads of the fjords. A single tour operator, Fisherman Seafood Trail, dominates the scene here. There are guesthouses, a highly rated restaurant, package tours visiting sites of interest regarding Iceland’s fishing history, and – at least seven big tour buses! Unfortunately, the restaurant doesn't serve lunch, so we drive back into the tunnel and take the other fork.

In Flateyri, we try Icelandic dried fish (a snack eaten with butter; actually quite palatable) and small flatbreads with smoked lamb (though we know better "cured meats" – namely Italian and Spanish hams).

We skip the hike in the area because, well... it’s raining again.

On the next headland, there is a wooden pier in the middle of nowhere to the north (Önundarfjördur Pier), and to the south, a place called Núpur that is essentially nothing more than a name on the map.

So, we move on to our destination for the day: Þingeyri.

Once a supply port for whalers and other fishermen, it is now a small, unremarkable town. There is a wonderful campsite, a swimming pool, a café where you can book horseback rides and rent bicycles, and a monument at the harbor ("The Tank" – whatever message that is supposed to convey). There are a few trawlers, heaps of fish transport crates, ropes, anchors, and other assorted gear. And there is a site where Viking commemorative festivals are held from time to time; after all, this location was an important trading hub back in the day.