Day 31: Ísafjörður – Bolungarvík

The weather is good. We set off on a hike to Valagil, a beautiful waterfall we’d spotted on the drive to Ísafjörður. From there, a well-marked trail leads further into the valley – we count eight waterfalls in total and hike for about two and a half hours, covering roughly seven and a half kilometers. It’s lovely!

At one point, we get overtaken by a few Asian tourists rushing along. A selfie session at Valagil, then the return trip. Maybe they have to be back on their cruise ship on time?

We zigzag through the area: back through Ísafjörður and on to Bolungarvík, then up to the Bolafjall viewpoint (638 m). The massive 1992 radar station, the rocky landscape, the lingering snow – the whole scene feels truly otherworldly. And today, the sky is clear, offering a fantastic panoramic view.

On the way down, a turn-off toward the coast beckons us into another beautiful valley. Ah, so this is the surfing beach. A cozy spot. And the camping shelter offers a windbreak for brewing coffee.

If the weather were stable – or if we had a bigger truck – we’d stay the night here. We have neither. Since it’s forecast to pour rain tonight and the wind is expected to pick up again, we head back to the campsite in Bolungarvík. It has a common room, cooking facilities, a washer and dryer, and is connected to the local swimming pool complex.

Oh, and before that, we drive a short distance along the old coastal road to the lighthouse, passing a small museum village. Unfortunately, the road around the mountain hasn't been maintained since the tunnel opened.

And by the way: we knew about the surfing beach from Satu Römö’s crime novels. We also learned from the reading, during the winter months, the sun doesn't manage to rise above the mountain ridges surrounding Ísafjörður. Living in darkness – or semi-darkness – for so long would be quite difficult for us!