Day 15: Ásbyrgi – Möðrudalur

The sound of birdsong in the morning is simply lovely. However, since it barely gets dark, there is plenty of chirping and calling going on at night, too :-)

It is grey and drizzly – weather conditions here change so quickly.

We were planning an excursion today anyway, so it’s no big deal. And then the weather turns out much better than forecast.

We head into the canyon of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum, Iceland's second-longest river. Rainwater and glacial meltwater from the Vatnajökull region plunge down over three waterfalls here. We take the eastern track, which has just reopened. Dettifoss is 45 m high and about 100 m wide. Selfoss is the uppermost of the falls and stands about 10 m high. The last waterfall downstream – Hafragisfoss, at around 27 m high – is the first one we encounter on our route.

There are small hiking trails and a few viewpoints at all the falls, offering great views of the cascades and the gorge.

Not much further along lies Möðrudalur, home to Iceland's highest-altitude farm (at 469 m – I wonder what the Austrians and Swiss would say to that?). Wolle has been here before and remembers a nice campsite and a good restaurant – it’s tempting to stay here spontaneously tonight.

By the way: We bought a "Camping Card" for 179 euros, valid for 28 overnight stays. This will be our third night using it. There are around 40 participating campsites – mostly municipal and generally very basic.

We have a bit of shelter from the wind at the back of the car, a spectacular view, and even a visit from a reindeer. And we’re going out for a meal!