Water is almost a central theme of our stay in Zambia. We are constantly forced to geographically locate which rivers actually come from where and where they flow. The Zambezi has accompanied us for a long time, ever since the Caprivi Strip (Namibia). In the southwest, on our way to the Liuwa Plains, we crossed a floodplain of the river stretching for many kilometers, and the huts, which at times are still submerged dangerously close to or after the rainy season, reminded us of the Halligen (hallig islands) in Friesland. The water brings abundance of fish, allows for travel in dugout canoes, and brings celebrations to a court when the king has to move at the height of the floods.

In the Liuwa Plains, we see thousands of wildebeest, which will migrate ever further north as the drought increases. At Kafue National Park, we are surrounded by hippos that curiously eye us from the water and grunt and rumble to sleep. We still haven't found a suitable name for the sounds these fat animals make.

After visiting the Lower Zambezi National Park, we drive north through the Luangwa Valley, moving from the southern part of the country to the northern part. We learn that during the rainy season, the rangers and the white men who manage the (luxury) lodges leave the valley, and then the poachers take over. Again and again. In addition to rhino horns, lion tail tufts also seem to be believed to have a potency-enhancing effect somewhere in Asia. It's absolutely perverse. And there's still a lot of money to be made from elephant ivory.

We also have plenty of water in northwest Zambia. A five-day waterfall tour takes us to Mumbuluma Falls, Ntumbachushi Falls, Lumangwa Falls, Kabweluma Falls, and Chishima Falls. A few days later, we visit Kalambo Falls, arguably the second-highest free fall in Africa. Each fall is unique, all of them great, but on audio recordings, they all sound the same – loud and magnificent :-)

We meet exceptionally friendly people in a poor, but partially prosperous country. We receive so many positive signals about traveling here, it's somehow touching. Sometimes people wave to us with both hands, who are actually pushing bicycles with heavy loads, and we're more worried that everything will be thrown off balance. At some places, such as the Kamukonzo Community Camp or at Luangwa Falls, the caretakers make a charming effort to make our stay as pleasant as possible, despite the poor conditions. They carry wood for a fire or hot water for a shower. One of the highlights is a small water canister for washing hands in the bush camp.

We also visit campsites at lodges with plenty of amenities – which, however, also cost a lot of money. Still, sometimes it's nice to have a meal cooked for you, bathe in hot springs, use Starlink on a remote farm, and enjoy nice showers and comfortable, clean toilets.

As is often the case, we meet other travelers, have great conversations, and even hear stories from white people living in Zambia. For example, from the owners of the Mvuu Lodge on the Lower Zambezi, who lost their farm in Zimbabwe in the early 2000s, or from Brad, whose family abandoned a farm in South Africa after a shooting.