We're traveling through Tanzania in two stages. First, from Zambia, we'll head north along Lake Tanganyika, then to Lake Victoria on the way to Uganda.

With the border from Zambia to Tanzania, the landscape, the overall impression, the people, and a few minor details change.

There are road signs; official speed limits and, above all, their suspension. Street names. Zebra crossings. Shoulders for pedestrians and cyclists overland, at least on the main road sponsored by US citizens. But there are also tuk-tuks again: motorcycles with up to four people on them and/or an animal. Hardly any private cars, but when there are, they're not in the worst condition. Wonderfully brightly painted minibuses and trucks. There are again large banknotes that are worthless. And there are again mosques. Women with headscarves, probably of Indian descent. The African women wear longer shawls and more muted colors than in Zambia.

We have wider views. The landscape sometimes seems tropical, at other times we think of savannah, but overall, intensive agriculture is practiced. More cattle than goats. Somewhat poor, but not destitute.

We visit Gombe National Park, where Jane Goodall began researching chimpanzee behavior in 1960. A fantastic two-day trip. A boat ride into the park, two hikes, and two encounters with chimpanzees. On the second day, we find ourselves in the middle of a hunt for other apes and realize once again that chimpanzees aren't just the cute little creatures we know from Daktari and Grzimek. On the other hand, they do display many behavioral patterns similar to ours. Quite an experience.

But this may be our only visit to the park in Tanzania. The prices for foreigners, especially those who drive themselves, are ridiculously high.