Sunday 2023/01/08

Marble Campsite – Opuwo

Today we want to cross the country on the smallest side roads to the Epupa Falls in the north on the border with Angola. The Van Zyl Pass should be avoided – we are not allowed to drive it – and the Joubert's Pass, which is also said to be quite difficult.

As always these days we are making slow but steady progress and apparently passing the heartland of the Himba. Everywhere small villages, large herds of goats, cattle, mules. The villages look well cared for, one settlement being replaced by the next. There are people everywhere. And that, although the country is still very barren. From time to time we have to search for our track especially in Himba villages.

On a river bed we meet giraffes, a herd of goats and Himbas on mules – and that at a shimmering 33 degrees. The last part to Okangwati turns out to be difficult to pass through, at least for us. Steep and with big stones and deep ruts, it's a path where one of us always have to walk next to the car to see how the driver maneuvers best and whether you hit or bump anything – you can do it, but we don't have to. And since we don't know what the further route will be likewise and time is passing, we decide to turn around and drive to Opuwo on a better maintained gravel road.

On the way we break to help a few locals to patch a tire (hole too big, not really solvable, but they drive on with a provisionally patched and badly inflated tire).

Finally we make it just before dark to a lodge with a campsite 5 km south of Opuwo: Kaoko Manopane, paradise on earth for today! There is even an open restaurant here.