Monday 2019/12/23

Omungunda Campsite/Ovahimba Living Museum – Epupa Falls

After a quiet night despite the thunderstorm, we get breakfast in the morning. We are the first tourists to choose breakfast rather than dinner. There is a freshly baked, slightly sweet bread that reminds a little of brioche, maize porridge, which is mixed with thick or sour milk, plus omelette and salad (Western style). We'll spare the sausages for later. We can't eat them in the morning. In the evening in the Chilli, however, they are very tasty.

In addition to our own coffee, there is a kind of herbal tea that is somehow similar to red bush tea. Delicious.

Visiting the Himba village is quite ambivalent. We don't know if people really live there. For example, we don't see any groceries or other everyday objects. And how George, our guide through the village, practically "demonstrates" the people, is a bit strange. But we learn something about the structure of the village, way of life, clothing, jewelry and its meaning (for example, it indicates the marriage and child status of a woman) and the production of clay pots from ground clay from the termite mounds. We learn that the red color on the skin serves as protection against the sun and insects, is primarily used by women who are not allowed to wash. After Leo and Astrid show some games, the ice breaks in relation to the Himba people. When it comes to ritual dance, it gets a bit strange again. But these people make a living from the demonstrations and being photographed. Well, that's OK. In this village community, unlike in traditional villages, people from different families live together who have chosen this project.

The four of us pay 1000 Namibian dollars to the Himba for the tour. Since we are a bit short with cash, we pay the 800 Namibian Dollars for camp, breakfast and another bread in Euros. We make 70 out of about 54 euros, because John has to go to Opuwo for exchange. The amount includes tip for the stuff and George our guide through the village.

We learn a few basic terms in the native language. "Okuepa" means "thank you", "morrow, morrow" means "good morning" ...

We learn that the mopane tree is a medical miracle. The fresh leaves are said to be able to cure every "running stomache" in 15 minutes. The tea is said to be good for the stomach and heart and the chewed leaf can be used to heal cuts. But we'll find out later that the mopane tree is never there when you really need it.

Around 12:30 p.m. we head north. Over 100 kilometers of gravel road through breathtaking sceneries. Every now and then a Himba village. Shepherds and herds of goats along the way, hardly any oncoming traffic.

Without further search we choose the Epupa Fall Lodges and Campsite, located directly on the Kunene River and take a Rock Shandy (a mixture of lemonade, rare and a few drops of Angostura) on the terrace of the Logdge, a drink, that should accompany us throughout the journey.

We set up the roof tents and have a walk to the Epupa waterfalls. Astrid prefers the pool today.

Crazy: We are right at the border to Angola, which is on the other side of the Kunene river. There are numerous waterfalls spread over a large area, almost like a river delta. Very impressive and a bit tropical.

On the Angolan side there are huge baobab trees. They can live up to 3000 years and reach a diameter of up to 10 meters. They are able to store water so that they can feed on it later. Fruits and seeds are edible and rich in vitamins and minerals.

On a bank we discover a giant bird, the snake-necked heron. Very impressive.

In the evening there is a bit of wind and some withered palm leaves fall down, a bit scary!

The falls rustle loudly and the chirping of birds. Just wonderful.

Shower, dinner and at 9 p.m. we are in our roof tents.

In the evening we have a discussion about the destination for the next day. Wolle would like to drive south of Sesfontein into the wild, a route that another traveler (Henning from Westensee, whom we met for the first time at the Himba village and meet here again) recommended. We are not sure if this detour wouldn't be too much. Wolle has a lot more stamina and power than the three of us. We adjourn until tomorrow.